How To Pot Cymbidium Orchids - for Beginners

 

TIME TO REPOT

The exact time to divide an orchid plant is dependant upon several points listed below:

  • Cymbidium Orchids do not like wet feet.  If water does not run out of the pot after watering, or water pools on the top of the pot - Divide and repot (see section below)
  • Soft Bulbs - Divide and repot (see section below)
  • Is the plant growing well and flowered last season?  Yes!  Then leave it alone if possible.  Orchids prefer to be crowded in the pot.
  • Is your Orchid overcrowded in the pot?  Overcrowding generally means no more bulbs will fit in the pot or it is breaking the pot or pushing it out of shape.  If Yes, either Divide and Repot or consider Potting On.

Divide and Repot means - to take the plant from its existing pot, split it up and place a smaller piece of the plant into a new pot.
Potting on means - to take the plant from its existing pot and place it in a larger pot in one piece.

Choosing is easy, if the existing pot is already large enough for you to handle, go to the Divide and Repot section for instructions.  If you can handle a larger pot, consider Potting On as your Orchid is more likely to flower in the next season (scroll down to the Potting On section for these instructions)

Items required for potting:

  • Pots
  • Free draining Orchid Mix (Bio Gro Orchid Mix, or Orchid Bark Nuggets)
  • Secateurs or a knife
  • Controlled release fertiliser (Osmocote, etc)
  • Snail and slug pellets
  • Plant tag

How to DIVIDE & REPOT a Cymbidium Orchid

The best time to divide Cymbidium Orchids in Southern Australia is after flowering in Spring and preferably by Melbourne Cup Day.  However, they can be divided any time in need.

  • Keep the plant on the dry side for two or three weeks before dividing - this makes it easier to get it out of the existing pot.
  • Remove the plant from the pot.  Physical violence may be required here - it's only a plant.  Then shake off the 'loose' bark and compost from the roots.  This is good for the garden - don't reuse it on your orchids.
  • Dividing the plant:  Firmly twist the plant, weak points will develop and the plant will come apart in a few pieces of multiple bulbs.  This is great, however, sometimes a fair amount of force is required.
  • Roots will be tangled , try to tease them apart.  However, when frustration hits, cut through the remaining roots where they are tangled.  The plant will replace the roots it needs.  Throw away any of the roots that fall off, leave the rest alone.
  • If you find any soft bulbs, remove them and put them in the bin - they probably have fungal disease.  A fungicide is a good idea in this case, ask a Nursery person for advice.
  • Normally pieces of the Orchid will contain bulbs with green leaves and some without leaves (backbulbs).  There is no need to separate these:  backbulbs are like reserves for the plant.  However, remove any loose material around all the bulbs, dead leaves, etc.
  • Ideally the best plant for repotting is a piece containing a minimum of four bulbs with leaves, and a few bulbs without leaves.  A solid piece.
  • If you have four bulbs with leaves but they are coming apart, there is no point keeping these together.  Two and two don't make four in Cymbidiums - they make two and two.
  • If your piece has more bulbs without leaves than with leaves, you may remove some of the bulbs without leaves.
  • You may end up with three or four good pieces of the plant.  Keep the best one and give the others away unless you want several of the same plant.  Warning:  small pieces can take three to five years to flower, most of us don't grow them for the foliage!
  • Your chosen piece of plant is now ready to be potted.  Hold the plant in the pot with half a bulb's height showing above the top of the plant.  Pour Orchid mix into the pot and gently shake in around the roots.  Fill the pot to just above the base of the bulbs - approx 2 centimetres below the top of the pot.  Do not press the mix in.
  • Add a teaspoon on Controlled release fertiliser (Osmocote, etc) around the top of the pot and stir it into the surface.  A few Slug and Snail pellets in the same area are also important - but don't leave these where children or animals can get them.
  • Don't forget to put the plant tag in if you know the name of the plant. 
  • Give your new plant a drink and you're done.

How to POT ON a Cymbidium Orchid

Potting on can be done at any time of the year as the aim is to cause as little disturbance to the plant as possible.  Avoid when the plant is in bloom if possible to minimise damage to the blooms.  Large robust plants normally produce the most blooms.

  • Keep the plant on the dry side for two or three weeks - this makes it easier to get it out of the existing pot.
  • Remove the plant from the pot, without disturbing the roots if possible.  Place the plant in a larger pot and put new potting bark around the edge.
  • Fill the pot to just above the base of the bulbs, approx 2 centimetres below the top of the pot.  Do not press the mix in.
  • Add a teaspoon of Controlled release fertiliser (Osmocote, etc.) around the top of the pot and stir it into the surface.  A few Slug and Snail pellets in the same area are also important but don't leave these where children or animals can get them.
  • Don't forget to put the plant tag in if you know the name of the plant.
  • Give your new plant a good drink and you're done.

General Growing Tips for Cymbidium Orchids:

Growing location -

  • Sunny well-ventilated areas are good
  • A spot that has protection from the very hot afternoon sun
  • Frost will burn Cymbidium Orchids
  • Up off the ground if possible, on bricks or frames

Watering  -  Damp but not saturated, water in the mornings if possible

Fertilising  -   Yearly with a teaspoon of controlled release fertiliser and they won't mind half strength liquid fertiliser of most easily available types every couple of weeks if you remember.  Just about anything will do.  If you're really getting serious, liquid feed along the following lines: 
 
     Sept to Dec - Low nitrogen approx 10 and high potassium approx 15 and
     Jan to Aug - High nitrogen approx 15+ and high potassium as above.

Slugs and snails -  Will often live hidden in your pots.  The most attractive part of the plant to slugs and snails is the flower spike.  It is said that slugs and snails will climb over broken glass to eat an Orchid flower spike.  November until August is the key time to have protection.

Shadehouses -  Avoid more than 50% shade cloth and keep in a well-ventilated area.

Flowering spikes -  Can be cut and taken inside once the first flower has opened.

Flowering plants -  Can be taken inside for display.  Heaters will shorten the life of the flowers.